etting there from Trivandrum by bus was complicated by the general strike, but even more so by the fact that the single direct night bus had broken down and so I took one bus (30R) to Padmanabhapuram (or was it Nagercoil?) and then jumped on another bus at midnight to Madurai (70R). As is so often the case, a "sleeper" bus only means that it travels at night, and that very little sleep is involved (at least for the uninitiated), as you will - if fortunate enough to get a seat - be squeezed in between burly workmen who’ve already staked out where their shoulders and knees will remain for the duration. Madurai was yet another instance of all the LP listed budget accoms costing up to twice the quoted prices, and full-up anyway. And while there may be many Indian-oriented hotels with cheaper rooms available, these rooms are usually on the fifth floor of a walk-up.
One notable exception was the TM Lodge (340R), where I stayed 5 nights, just down the main tourist street from the Chantoor, Supreme, et al. Catering to India businessmen, the service here was excellent, and the rooms clean with some western toilets and full cable TV. Also, since the power cuts out regularly everywhere, the TM Lodge, as well as most of the ’better’ hotels, have static generators which kick in whenever the municipal power supply falters. Madurai is an excellent place to get custom made shirts (I was pleased with the workmanship at S.M. Tex, opposite the East Tower of the market on the north side of the Temple, but expect to pay at least 350R for a decent Indian-style cotton shirt, and 650R for silk with a western-style collar, cuffs and a pocket. Be prepared to bargain HARD, and to still pay more than you thought you would...) The temple itself was worth wandering about for a day, but don’t buy the 50R entrance ticket to the inner temple, which they’ll sell you knowing that you won’t be allowed in since you’re not Hindu. Also bear in mind that the roof-top restaurants do not sell liquor - the "bars" are dark but wonderfully air-conditioned affairs on the ground floors - and that the "beer" sold on said rooftops will be 120R a bottle for stuff that makes Kingfisher seem like Pilsner Urquell in comparison;-)
Madurai is a serious little city, with lots of interesting - and occasionally disorienting - little streets and sections to walk about. (There were even a couple of AC Cyber shops on the main tourist street with decent keyboards and monitors; a rare convergence of function and comfort in S. India....) The street food (and skillfully prepared Pan) was excellent, and it was nice to see more bicycles than scooters, along with bicycle-powered rickshaws. Oh yes, and there are NO views of the temple as touted by everyone and his brother from the surrounding Antique shop roof-tops. Period.
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